Poubth to leah v



(No Model.) v

- G. H. ABRAMS.

- SHIRT. No. 372,781.

{IO more accurately to the form at theplaces which- I larg'ingandcontracting the neck an GEORGE E. ABnAMs, or BROOKLY v 'FOURTH TO LEAHv.0.

SHI

PATENT OFFIC in, NEW YORK, Ass cnon, O F oun- NAUL, or SAME PLACE.

srncrncni ron semi-11 5ml. of Letters PatentNo. 372,181, dated November8, 1887.

Application flled April 19, 1887.

Serial no; 235.309. (No model.)

To ZZ whom it may concern: 4 a

Beit known that I, GEORGE HLABRAMS, of Brooklyn, Kings county, intheStateof New York, have inveiited a certain new. and useful 5Improvement in Shirts, of which the following is a specification.-

The objects of the invention are to provide for raising and lowering thepoints of attach- 1 ment of the collar; alsoto cause the shirt to fitare ordinarilysomewhat hollowed in front of 1 the-shoulders, to avoidbending, or, technically, breaking, the bosom when the wearer sits or 7otherwise hollows the chest, to provide for en- .d adjacent parts of theshirt,v so that one size may be adjusted to widelyrdifl'ering sizes ofmen, and also to provide passages through' which the hands maybeconvenientlyinserted within the shirt at thefronte The neckband isprovided at the back with a series of buttonholes, When the neckband iscontracted at theback by shiftingthe stud into different button-holes tofit a small neck, the peculiar shape of the yokes andadjacent partsfavors the change. The neck'band is laid out and cut. from the planematerial i-n'a form approximating. the letter V, but-with a-curve ofsmall radius at the apex, which is at the front, and with the sidescurved slightly in the-reverse direction. This. latter curve providesthat the ends or extreme .back portions of the neckband are roundeddownward. The upper edge of-thesurplus material is, by the curvaturewhich I give the back portions'of th'e neckband, kept down out of sight.I provide for the variations in size by a double series of button-holesin the neckbandon each side of the opening e at theback. -A stud isinserted through any 40 two ofthese, according to the sizeof theneckwhioh is to be 'atched'. I provide'onthc in-' side of then'eckbahd atthe'front, iuthe'apei: of the V shape referred to, a flap, whi oh performs important functions. 2 It folds downward. v on the inside close tothe Tne'ckband'. It is proirided with a button-hole, which, whenthe flapis in thatposition, coincides with the but ton-hole in the neckbandproper, and'the stud at the front of the neckband is inserted throughfunctions;'but when, in consequence'oftheapproach of winter, or for anyother reason, the wearer chooses to have his shirt higher at the front,he removes the stud 1 and unfolds the flap, causing it to project abovethe neckband, He then inserts the stud through the buttonhole in theflap alone, and uses it to perform theordina'ry functions of the frontstud -that is, to hold the front ends of the collar'and necktie. In thiscondition the ordinary button-hole at the front of the neck-band remainsidle. A similar but longer help is provided at the back 1 of theneckband on each side of the opening, provided, like the neckband, witha series of button-holes. When it is desired to wear the collar lowatthe back, these back flaps are folded down below the neckb'an'd and thestud is put through both. When, on the'contrary,

it is desired, as on some occasions of special dress, to wear the collarhigh at the back, the 7c back flaps are opened upward and the stud" isput through them, leaving the button-holes *in the neckband unused. 4 p

I employ a piece, technicallydenominated a yoke, on each shoulder,filling the space between the upper edge in .the front,inc1'ud.-' ingaportion of the bosom and the back.,- I make these pieces wider thanordinal and peculiarly curve the front and back edges. The conditionsare such that the front edge of 80, the y'okeis farther forward thanusual. I correspondingly out down the front of the shirt, but with aslightly difi'ering curve. This gives an advantage very important undersome circumstances. In shifting the frontseam of the yoke from itsordinary position on .the center of the shoulder to a positioneonsiderably forward of that lineit avoidss'ub ectingtheshoulder to thepressure of the seam. The changed conditions also givea furtheradvantage in al-' lowing" the 'yoke to'fit well upon'th'eshoulder andaiding to make the parts lie smoothly, whether the back is let outsoj asto match a large neckor taken up sovas to match a small one.', In theact of taking up the shirt-by contracting the neckband, inthe man-ncrexplained, -the yoke on each shoulder is gradually shifted over. 'It isinclined toward the front position when the shirt is I adjusted for 59both. 9 Inthis conditionthe'fiap performs'no fthelargest'neckg Itisinthe central position I rhshirts. Each is capable of being let out ortaken up t'woinches. '1 cut the armhole in .thebody lower than-usual atthe lower edge,

so that there is the same'opening as "us arfcr the arm and only theordinary amount of Q gathering of the sleeve, notwithstanding. the;-

I fact that the upperedge of the armhole is somewhat lowered. I providean opening'j inthe body ofthe shirtat the fronted-each side, whichis'protected or covered by there-4 enforce,- so that it makes aconvenient means for the introduction of the hand to adjn'stthe.

studs or for any other purpose, thejllHQtifdh, of the re-enforcewith themain bodyfbeihg left open a sufficicnt spaceto allow the hand- .25 to bethrust up from below. The. accompanying drawings form a part of thisspecification, and represent what "I 'conslider the best means ofcarrying out the invention. I l

Figure 1 is a front view of the shirt. In. this View thQ flaps atthefront'and back of the neckband. are turned do'wnout of use. Fig. 2'is afront View of a portion. In this view the flaps are tu'rnedup inposition for use. 5 3-is a sectionon the linear min Fig. 1.

' Fig. 4 represents the neckba'nd in the for-in in which it' is cut fromthe plane material;

alone, before being sewed into the shirt. Fig I 5 is a vertical sectionthrough; the neckband o at the back. The condition of ;:the parts.corfresponds-to Fig. 1, but is on a. larger scale."

, Similar letters of reference indicate correspending-parts in all thefigureswhere they-- occur.

A is the muslin body brine frontoi' 'a-shirt.

Bis the bosom}. which I will assume to be of two ormore thieknessesof-linen."

, C C arereenforce pieces of muslin reaching down thefronteaeh sideo'fthe bosom, as usual. D is the hack, andE-LE are the sleeves. Theseparts may be cut and applied together in 'the ordinary,manner,'-- exceptin certain points near the top, which/will "now be. described..,

M is a neckband, whichei tends around in 1 asingle piece and islong'e'nough to-encompass thelargest neck. The back of the neck; I handis proyided..,with a clouble series of button-holes, m, any one ofwhich'wil l' receiyefh h 6o ordinary stud. The arrangement allows the' I.neckband to be let out or taken up within widelimits.

PjiS. the stud which isinsertedin'the front buttoa hole and" performsits 'usual functions. .oficofifihing the collar." (Not represented.) Qisthe stud which serves at the back,,by

.;e ds sna1 eve'r the st fton'holesm asto contract the nechband to less:

being inserted in any of the button-holes m,-

what-form.

to hold the shirt together at the top, and also to hold the collar atthe back.

-I cut the neckband with a quick curve at the front. It is cut from aplane piece of muslin in a form approximating thatof the letter V;-

but instead ofa sharp angleat the'apex it "is oundedas small radius, andinstead of straight arms; they'are curved. slightly outward,,the"properiamount being allowed for the seams on'each edge. When myeckband is sewed in place on the upper edge of the shirt,

it lies nearlyiiflr lilie-planejof the bosom at the tronainsteadetprojecting.forryard, in the or-- diua'ry gnajnnen-at a considerableangle. The

curvature. at the sides and-back, when applied 'on theproperl cutyoke,insures thatthe back pressed. and concealed whenc :Q is inserted throughsuch but- .than'Ti-t'sfull-capacity.

G G aeyokes of double muslin, which applyonf theshoulders and performthe usual -functions,modificd and improved by the peculiar form which Igive to theseparts and to the adjacent parts. I make the yokes widerTromthe front edge to the back edge than is common. When the neck is letoutto ihs largest size, the yokes extend forward of them I ordinarypositions. henthe neckis contracted by shifting'the stud Q successivelyinto different button-holes m, soas to fit a smaller andsmallerneck,it-will usually be the case that the breadth of the shirt at theshoulders shouldbe' correspondingly reduced. This is accomplished by myform of the yokes which,

as-the neck is contracted, shift gradually over from the froht to theback of the shoulders.

lent the upper edge of thehosom B and of the front A and. rte-enforces Cso low, or so far forward, that when the neck is the most contracted andthe yokes are. shifted {overbackward to their greatest extent the frontedgeof the y'okeis still fo'rward'of the central line -of-the shoulder.This insures that the slight ridgeformedby-thescam shall never beardisagreeablyjon the shoulder.

The upper edge ofhijlB; and G is cut on a curve, the middle of the seambeing higher up the shoulder than; either :end. The adjacentedgeof-theyoke isalso curved. The fact that this-seam is always forwardof the top of the shoulder allows me to match the shirt to the form atthis point very nicely byho1lowing it, if desired-thatis to say, makingthe curvature .of the top of the front A B O straighter than-theadjacent edge of the yoke G. Most forms are a little hollow in thefront, of the shoulder, and it is ordinarily preferable .45 k thisseamhellow;.h h,;if. it is, desired.

in any case, the parts "can be out with eixiactiy the same curve on oneas'on the other, which will cause the shirt to :lie flat, or they can beout with. a greater? curvature. on the edge of nessalphgth-isflineadapted to match to a cor- I30 the partsyA B 0 than on the adjacentedgeof theyoke G,-' in'which case there will he a fall'- Of Icourse, whenthe-shirt is thus nsedh'ign- ,ball or for any reason,

5 into different button-holes m, so as to-take up "and let out the.neckbaud.

-' My shirt is self-adjusting with regard'to the width of theshoulders;- When the back-of the eck is let out to wear'a largecollar,the man re who requires this will usually becorrespondinglybroad-shouldered. With; my shirt the same act of lettingout the-backof the bandxto ,enlarge'the neck will also let the y'okesmove forward. and outward and correspondingly :5 broaden the shouldersof the shirt; T is a flap at the front of; the n'eekband, pro-.

vided with a; button-hole, t, whic -{when the flap is folded backwardand downward within the neck'band, coincides in position with the Whenthe stud Pis ordinary button-hole. inserted through both thebutton'holes, laid ioneupon the-othenihe shirt is used inthe ordinarymanner, as above described. 'When' it is desired to make theshirt higherin the.

neck at the front, the stud is removed and the flap T unfolded andextended upward. Now

the stud P is inserted in the button-hole t alone, and stands aninch-(more orless) above the other button-hole, thus addingcorrespondingly to the height of the neck of. the shirt.

neck,it calls fora smaller collar, which must be provided.

' U' are corresponding but'longer flaps provided near the ends of theneckband. When the shirt isin use, these flaps U come at the back ofihe'nec-k. They may be each provided with the same number ofbutton holesas the ;g adjaceritportio'ns of the neckband to which up theyareattached. These flaps U are joined to the neckband along the straightline U.

They lie smoothly against theneckoaud when they are folded down out ofuse. They lie smoothly extended when-they are unfolded or caused toproject upward Under ordinary conditionsthese flaps are folded down. Inthis position they serve the important end of defending the back of theneck'of the wearer against the pressure of the stud. l/V-ith-ordinaryshirts the pressure of the stud against a small surface on the neck isfrequently a source of annoyance. With my shirtone of the flaps Uistemporarily unfolded, the Stllfl'..Q is in-. r serted in the properhole, m,

I then the flap U is folded downward-and remains in that positionas aprotection between thestud and'the neck of the wearer. Thus the flapU--on .the end of the neckband which-lies within the nary conditions.

by each of the flaps U when,'in dressing for a r the collar higher thanusual at hebaeie. In

:preparing therefor the flaps. 'U are unfolded and extend upward, andthe stud Qis inserted through-theproper button-holes, rain thefiapspoint, the two openings at and 0 being widely.

-r2= other performs a useful function under ordiit is desired to: wearalone. In this position the stud performs the same functi0n,as before,ofholding" the back of the neckband together at the proper size, andalso=of holding the back of the collar, (not shown;) but'it, holds thecollar higher than usual. g

Instead of sewingthe lower edge of the re enforce pieces 0 to theadjacent surface of the frontbody, A, quite across, I leave a spaceunsewed at G large enough to receive the hand and wrist of the wearer. Icut a-slit,-a," in the front A on each side of the'bosom in the positionrepresented; "The hand may be inserted 8c within the bosom to an in adjusting the studs, or forany other purpose, by thrusting it upward underthe lower edge of the re-enforce O, and-then inward throughthe slit a.The arrangement ofkthe apertures insuresthatthe- 5 personiis covered andprotected from sight. and from cold. y

My yokes E are extended out farther over the shoulders than ordinaryyokes. This brings the upper partof the junction of the 9' sleevc'withthe body lower by auinch (more .or less) t-hanwith theordinary'shirt. "Icor respondingly lower the bottom of the junction .of the sleeve withthe body. Thus I obtain- .the same size of armhole and the same libertyfor, movement of .thearmin-the shirt as 1 with the ordinaryconstruction, but at a lower level. This is an advantage, in allowingthe junction ofthe sleeve to th'ebody tojbe drawn up by successivecontractions of the neck with- 00 out involving difficulty. I

. 'I'claim as my invent-ion d -1. Ina" shirt, the folding flaps T U,provided with-button-hol'esj u, adapted to receive the studs P Q, eitherinthe foldedor pr/ tended condition, and to attach the collaratcorrespondingly high or low points, as herein specified.

2. In a shirthaving aseries of buttonhole's, m, arranged as shown, theneckba'nd'M.hav- IIIO ing its ends curved downward, so as to'beconcealedwhen taken up,in combination with the yokes G,'extending forward beyondthe center lineof the shoulder and the correspond- 4 .ing fr0 ntparts,BC, and sleeves E, all arranged I15 to serve as herein specified.

3. In a'shirt having a .main front part,-A, and a re-enforce, 0, appliedas a partial coveri'ng therefor, a hand-hole, a, in the main partarranged behind the re-enforce, so as to be covered. thereby, incombination with apar-' tial seamor junctionmfithelnweredge of O with A,so as'to leave a handrholeC, at that:

removed, as he'rein specified. In testimony whereof I-have hereunto setmy hand, at New York city,this 14thdayof April, 1887, in the presence oftwo subscribing witnesses I i GEORGE H. ABRaMs/ Witnesses: 1

I H. A. JOHNSTONE BOYLE.

- is herebycertified that; in Letters Patent'No. 372,781, graiufie'dNovember 8, 1887, upon the application of George H. Abrams, of.Brooklyn, New York, for en improvemerit in Shirts, an error appearsrequiring correction, as follows: On page 1, line 16," .in the grant,the grant is xnade to- George H. Abrams, and Leah V. NeuLtlleir or as signs, whereas it should have been made to George H, Abidm's Lech 0';Neal, their heirs or assigns, the word heirs having been omitted in theOriginal grant; and that the Letters Patent should be read.- with thiscorrection therein that the sainelinay, conform to the record of thecase in the Patent Oifice. Signed, countersigned, and sealedthis20th'day of'December, A. D. 1887.. I [SEAL] D. L, HAWKINS, I

v Acting Secretary of the. Interior. Countersigned: f

BENTON J. HALL, 1

Commissioner of Patents.

Correction Letters Patent N 0. 372,781.

